How to choose the perfect hair color: step-by-step algorithm

These techniques are taught in advanced schools of stylistics, and they really work. Visual aid for you will be successful and unsuccessful images of celebrities.

First, you need to understand what we mean, saying: “You go this haircut” or “You are this hair color decorates.” Ever wondered what all these “goes/don’t go” mean? Why with one hair color we seem to ourselves fresh and younger, and with another (very fashionable) we see in the mirror a woman tired of the weight of the past years? A simple principle works in this case: we are decorated with our natural colorsquote. This is how harmony is created. This is how all the theories of colors of appearance work.

You may not like the following information (especially for brown-haired girls who usually find their hair color boring), but taking it into account is strategically important. The best hair color is the one that is naturally given. Dot. Then you can talk a lot about brightness and its absence, complain about the fact that it is you that nature did not finish, but it is much more productive to think about other things.

  • First, you are unique.
  • Second, brightness and beauty are not synonymous.

I will not decipher these points. Everything seems to be very clear. We need to work on acceptance. What are we going to talk about next if the recipe is so simple? Alas, everything is much more complicated than it seems… Firstly, not every one of us can reconstruct our natural color in memory, and secondly, even those who are able to do this will definitely want to get a recipe for its permissible upgrade. The good news is that it exists.

© Credit: Lev Dolgachov / Alamy Stock Photo

What is the algorithm?

Theories of colorists (especially “seasonal” – “Dark Summer”, “Real Winter”, etc.) seem very complex, and not easy – there are many nuances there. If we try to simplify all this to an adequate limit, but we will see that it is enough to know at least the main characteristic of appearance, and this alone will be able to protect us from a fatal blunder. If we manage to decide on additional ones, we will get the perfect alignment for our best hair shades.

Important theory

In total, color has 6 characteristics that are opposed to each other:

  • Deep (Dark) – Light
  • Clean – Soft (dusty)
  • Warm – Cold

Color is a combination of these characteristics, in which one will be the leading, and the other two will be additional. First, let’s redistribute from the first category. What’s the first thing that catches your eye? Are you obviously dark, light, red? Answering these questions, you will find your “main color” – the leading characteristic that determines the fundamental moments in coloring. Next, we will try to determine the second category, which will allow you to get to the bottom of the nuances. Most colors here will be about the temperature of appearance.

Deep color

First of all, very saturated colors of appearance catch the eye. These girls have dark hair (from dark blond to deep brown) and deep brown eyes.Photo: Legion Media

© Credit: Parents.Ru Photo: Legion MediaPhoto: Legion Media

© Credit: Parents.Ru Photo: Legion Media

In the example of Kim Kardashian, we see what happens when Deep Color tries to become Light.


The best color is dark. It is not recommended to lighten the hair. The shade may be a little lighter, but not blonde! The charm of deep color is the saturation of all the colors of appearance, and this balance should not be disturbed.

Nuances of color

The second category of deep color is temperature. If the eyes are very dark (the pupil is barely distinguishable), and the skin is light and not prone to tanning, then the temperature is cold. This means that in shades it is better to go into a cool chestnut, plum, etc. If a brown shade is read in the iris, and the skin with a golden undertone, then, most likely, we are talking about a warm category. In this case, the shade should go into a redhead, copper, etc.

Light color

First of all, the whitewashing of all the colors of appearance is striking. These girls have very blonde hair, skin, and eyes. Eyebrows also do not contrast with the skin at all.Photo: Legion Media

© Credit: Parents.Ru Photo: Legion MediaPhoto: Robin Platzer/Twin Images/Hulton Archive/Getty Images

© Credit: Parents.Ru Photo: Robin Platzer/Twin Images/Hulton Archive/Getty Images

In the example of Gwyneth Paltrow, we see what happens when the Light Color tries to become Deep.


The best hair color is blonde. The worst scenario is an attempt to become a sultry brunette. The uniqueness of this color lies in the gentle flow of light shades. You can slightly “deepen” the roots, but leave the light of the end and withstand everything in a single tone.

Nuances of color

If the eyes are blue or gray, then the temperature of the appearance is cold, if greenish or brown – warm. In the first case, ash blonde is good, and in the second – wheat, honey, and other warm options.

Soft color

It is considered the most common in our country. It includes brown-haired girls. The depth of all the colors of the appearance is average (they are not very dark, but not very light). In all shades, there is a noble dustiness.Photo: Getty Images

© Credit: Parents.Ru photos: Getty Images

Photo: Steve Granitz/WireImage/Getty Images
© Credit: photo Parents.Ru: Steve Granitz / WireImage

In Jennifer Aniston’s example, we see what happens when Soft Color tries to become Pure.


The best hair color is soft blond. Your natural is ideal, but very cool on this color look a variety of complex colors – shatush, balayage, etc. Soft color loves the smooth flow of shades. Under the ban will be too dark and too light hair color.

Nuances of color

If the eyes are blue or gray, then the temperature is cold, if brown or green – warm. In the first case, the shade should go into the ashes. In the second – in a warm beige. In both cases, glare will be good. Since temperature is not the leading category, it can delicately coexist in strands.

Pure flavor

This color is the opposite of Soft. There are no impurities here. The hair of the representatives of the color is dark, and the main distinguishing feature is their contrast with light eyes. The iris is clean, there are no impurities in it. The white of the eye is snow-white.

© Alberto E. Rodriguez / Getty Images Entertainment

Jennifer Aniston is Soft color, and Courteney Cox is Pure (her opposite). The temperature is both cold.


It is important to maintain the contrast of eyes and hair. Also not recommended here are multi-colored strands. Color in everything is the opposite of Soft. Even color and glossy shine are shown. If you really want to try some complex coloring, then let the highlights of the color be located away from the face.

Nuances of color

If the eyes are blue or gray (Courteney Cox), then the temperature is cold, if green or very light brown – warm. Representatives — Aishwarya Rai, Irina Shayk. In the first case, the shade of dark hair can be cold brown, wine. In the second, we focus on warm versions of brown and reddish reflection.

Warm color

If the hair is naturally red, then it can be stated that the priority category is heat. What rules does this fact dictate to us?Photo: Getty Images

© Credit: Parents.Ru photos: Getty ImagesPhoto: Getty Images

© Credit: Parents.Ru photos: Getty Images

In the example of Jessica Chastain, we see how Warm Clean Appearance loses if you soften the color of your hair.


Do not change the temperature! It’s ideal to stay red, but there’s also a run. You can try warm brown shades, chestnut with a copper reflection, etc. It is important not to fall into a complete rejection of its coloristic nature, pretending to be a sultry brunette or platinum blonde.

Nuances of color

If in all previous colors the second category was temperature, then here it acts as the leading (the first catches the eye), so the nuances will dictate other parameters. Warm color can be Clean or Soft. How to determine? By the brightness of the eyes. If the iris is bright and transparent (with a minimum of inclusions), then the category is clean (Jessica Chastain). If there are color transitions and some blurriness, soft (Julianne Moore). In the first case, uniform hair color is desirable, and in the second, complex coloring is suitable, involving smooth transitions of shades (subject to warm temperature).

Cold color

The first case is when the hair and eyes are absolutely deep (the pupil and iris merge). These women have very fair skin with a bluish undertone. The second case is a total blonde from the roots.

Photo: Richard Blanshard/Moviepix/Getty Images
© Credit: photo Parents.Ru: Richard Blanshard / Moviepix / Getty Images

Photo: Getty Images
© Credit: Parents.Ru photos: Getty Images

Helen Mirren is naturally Soft Cold. Gray hair made its own adjustments, and the dominant changed. Now it’s Cold Soft. Looks harmonious.

Both variants in nature are rare, but often this category includes cases where the dominant cold is the result of manipulation. They can be natural – gray hair, or artificial – staining. Gray hair is the most common subtype of this color. Sometimes the cold color also includes blue-eyed girls with absolutely ashy blond hair.


If you are naturally “cold” in the dominant, then, of course, it is important not to break the idea of nature and act exclusively within your temperature. Making the shade of hair warm, you are very risking to give yellowness to the color of the skin. If the “cold” is brought in (by nature or by a hairdresser), then it is important to work in order to harmoniously fit it into the overall coloristic picture. Gray-haired women need to avoid warm colors in the design of appearance – clothes, metals, makeup. If there is a desire to give the hair a shade, then you need to focus on the natural color in choosing the temperature (see above).

Nuances of color

The second category here, as in warm colors, is Softness or Purity. We also look at the brightness/softness of the eyes. Radiant eyes will always be better homogeneous color, and in the second case, gray hair looks more harmonious with highlights, color transitions.

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